Update 09!

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Happy 09! I hope everyone had a great holiday season. I have been back in Ouagadougou for a few weeks now… slowly getting back to the flow of things in West Africa. December was a busy month, as I trekked through Ghana, Kenya and Tanzania. I recommend all three countries for travel, as all are quite developed for the travel industry and all offer a good to great selection of brown food. On the other hand, if you want a rougher, dustier, ocean-less vacation, come to Burkina Faso (and visit me)!

 

My highlights:

 

1. I met the President of Tanzania at the Serena in Ngorongoro Crater.  We slept together… in the same hotel. It was good times. His entourage was huge, thus making the identification of the man slightly more complicated. However, we took advantage of the presidential portrait in the lobby to identify him among his men.

 

Fortunately, we had the chance to have a meaningful conversation with Mr. President upon our arrival at the hotel. This was following an 8 hour bus from Mombasa to Arusha and a three hour trek with the Safari chauffeur to the Crater. Thus, we were in top form when we were notified by hotel staff that the president was entering and we should avoid sudden movements.

 

Mr. President: "Hi, how are you?"

Us (Caroline, Sarah, Nikhil and I) in semi-unison: "Good, Thanks. How are you?"

Mr. President: "Fine, Thanks."

 

Later we exchanged policy ideas.

 

2. I learned how to support the leading political parties in Ghana through dance. This happened on the first leg of our vacation while we visiting Ghana during the elections (first round of voting). It's quite simple actually.

 

For NPP, the slogan was moving forward. Thus, hold your arms out in front of you. Keeping your elbow locked, tilt you arms at a 45 degree angle. Now, move you hands back and forth in the upward direction and continue to repeat this back and forth movement.

 

For NDC, the slogan was change (sound familiar?). Place both hands in front of your chest, with one hand above the other. Now, rotate your hands in a circular motion. This movement represents change.

 

Both dance moves can work with just about any beat, as was confirmed during a night out in Kumasi where a NDC and NPP supporters showcased their moves.

 

(NDC won the elections during the run off that followed the initial ballot).       

 

3. I enjoyed the many Ghanaian phrases.   

 

            "I am fine like Fanta" = pick up line

            "Ballets not Bullets" = poster promoting peace throughout the elections

            "Drive home safety to a big HUG"

 

On the coast, I found that 90% of store names had a biblical reference. My favourite: the "No Jesus, No Life" sign that adorned a store that sold snacks.

 

4. I discovered many differences between Ghana and Burkina…. For example…

 

  1. In Ghana, phone cards are sold in booths and not on sticks. Thus you need to physically go to the phone card supplier while in Burkina the suppliers come to you.

 

  1. While driving in Burkina, fruit, meat, phone cards, gum and tissue vendors will approach your vehicle. In Ghana, the selection of vendors is much vaster. I took advantage of this selection by purchasing strawberry yogurt during my cab rides, while others (such as one of my cab drivers) chose to purchase glue….and preceded to sniff it for the remainder of our journey…

                 

5. I definitely couldn't leave Nairobi without being hit with tear gas. The sound of tear being fired echoes that of a pistol, it also burns the eyes and throat. I experienced this joy twice during my 5 day stay with Jami and Zu in Nairobi.

 

6. I went snorkelling in the Indian Ocean, while lacking the ability to swim.

 

7. Zanzibar. Stone Town. Sandbank.

 

8. I ate some amazing brown food. It was great meeting up with Rich in Kumasi, where we dined at a delicious Indian restaurant after taking a tour of his home for the last few months. The best brown food on the trip was definitely Haadi in Nariobi!

 

9. Everyone loves Obama unconditionally everywhere in Africa. 

 

10. I enjoyed the abundance of Smirnoff Ice in Kenya.

 

11. I ate at a Subway in Dar Salaam. Local specialty = paneer tikka!! This is something Brampton Subways should definitely consider.

 

12. I rode public transport in Kenya, complete with gangsta rap and strove lights.

 

muah.

Narinder

I heard brown music in Ouaga


Hey you!

 

Claire and I went to the gym on Friday night and to my surprise there were people of the South Asian decent working out! The gym is located in the American recreation center – and the typical mix includes local Burkinabe's + English speaking expats. I was on treadmill watching more people of the Asian decent slowly fill up the medium sized workout room. When I was done, I took off my headphones and heard the familiar (well sort of familiar ;) ) female vocal accompanying a Bollywood tune. The incoming group of Asians had changed the music on the stereo while I peacefully listened to Jay-z and Michael Buble on my ipod…

 

I have decided on my future housing situation. I will move into a room in the Zone de Bois region. The home is the office of an NGO - Friends of African Village Libraries (www.favl.org), and is equipped with Internet and hot water :).  Further the costs of my rent help to subsidize the costs of the NGO maintaining the office.  The placement should work out nicely; the hours of operation for the NGO coincide with the hours I stay at the PAMF office.  The location is slightly further than I originally hoped, however, the area is very safe (one of the better areas to stay in Ouaga) and the costs are reasonable.  I will forward my new address later next week as well. 

 

Saturday night included dinner and dancing with some of the locals and expats from the office. We started off the night chez moi and headed to Bara Tapa (a NGO expat hangout) for some dinner. To my surprise, they served pakoras there – however, I wasn't very impressed with them. We then headed over to the Matata – a macquis (local dance club). They played four English songs – two Shakira songs, an Akon tune and an old school reggae song. I think they might have played an English/Euro trance/dance song – but since that type of "music" is just noise, I was unable to identify the "artist".

 

I am considered a "blanche" here.  I try to explain, that I am really "brun" – but my explanation does little to convince the locals. Though, for each negotiation I engage in, I still tend to slip in this point in an attempt to decrease the "blanche" mark-up on everything and anything.  

Saturday also marked the third wedding I have missed this summer… love you Minds! Can't wait to see the pictures J

 

BTW… Have you seen a good movie lately? I watch a lot…and any suggestions to movies I should watch would be helpful! On a side note, I was watching ROG the other day, and my dvd (from my local Brampton video store) crapped out ½ through the film.  Can someone explain to me what happened at the end? Does the model marry the nasty actor? And who is the killer – "bad guy/gal"?  Who exactly is the girl she/he killed?; What happens to the short writer man – he is slightly on the stocker/creepy side,,,,no?

 

Important: My random notes are now in blog form. So, if you want to get these updates you need to "subscribe to the blog" – extremely easy to do (thanks Bhaskar!) – so, if you are interested, subscribe and you will continue to get these random updates.   http://narinder.posterous.com/

 

I have attached few pics from the opening of a new agency in Diebogoudou, Burkina Faso…..my personal fav. is the second pic.. . the kid on the left actually likes me – really


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Week 2 | In Ouaga

(Week of July 14th 2008)

 

 

Should I get a moto? My new friend Claire is leaving her Peugeot moto with me while she vacations back home in France. We had our first (and only, as she left yesterday) lesson on her bike yesterday. Her’s is not a real moto…it’s a motorbike…regardless, I lack skills in riding motobikes  (it was quite a shock as I am a very talented driver).  It was really great though… we went on a somewhat quiet street and practiced at lunch… the men who lined the stalls were supporting my efforts with laughter and cheers…

 

Most of my time continues to be spent with Ex-Pats…. All from France! On the 14th of July, we went to the house of the France Ambassador… well…it was more like a palace than a house…. The party took place in the front gardens……. We sipped on juice, wine and champagne…There are A LOT of expats from France here…(Burkina was previously a French colony)… I am getting more exposure the French than I did living in Paris!!! That event also gave me my first painful mosquito bite … it’s such a shame, because I have been particularly great with spraying deet everywhere…sigh

 

The office...

 

The view outside my office window … On one side, there is a building, now a church (according the sign and the choir that assembles late in the evenings) that remains partly complete…and this is not uncommon. A large number of projects are started, however, almost always due to capital restraints, are never completed. It’s such a shame…. There is a side of Ouaga called Ouaga 2000 that has a huge amount of unfinished buildings/homes etc… most of them are quite nice.. it is the new/posh Ouaga in the works…

 

The other window faces the street.  It’s quite interesting…regardless of your mode of transportation (car, moto, scooter), you will be surrounded by a group of people who are trying to sell you something…. From fresh meat (+ flies) on pages of newspaper to the latest Prada, Gucci and Fendi sunglasses to jewelry from Nigeria ;)  The mangos are quite amazing. I am not a fan of the mango cocktails…the rhum tastes odd... There is a bolongerie near work …  croissants for 350FCFA ;) (less than a dollar CAD)

 

It is raining right now…I have never seen such heavy rain…I especially enjoy the rain because it partly floods the insides of the guesthouse (my current residence) and converts the dirt roads to puddles of mud.

 

I am spending the next week in two rural villages in the southern part of BF, and plan to take along my camera.

In one of the villages there is no hot water and no internet….…

 

Overall… I am good!

 

I got a mobile!!! My number is: (+226) 75381592 

Week 1 | Arriving in Burkina Faso

Week 1 | Arriving in Burkina Faso

I arrived in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso on Monday night (July 7th 2008).  My flight to Ouaga was slightly rough as I had a ten hour stopover in Paris.  I am currently staying in a guest house with two French consultants. There is a hotel restaurant not far from the guest house which we frequent quite often. The place reminds me of a stereotypical African movie spot for ex-pats.  I had my favorite meal there thus far… omelet with potatoes and salad for about $8.

No one really understands the fact that I am a vegetarian L… We went to this African café for lunch yesterday where I ordered fries…just fries…I was quite clear…granted that my French is a work in progress….. (few speak English here!!) … the server came back with a plate of fries and a fried fish sitting on the side of my plate.  One of my colleagues tried to explain the situation to the server…but it was pretty much hopeless… I ended up eating fries from one of the sides….

Lizards are everywhere… inside too!  I slept with a baby lizard on my second night… any advice on how to deal with lizards would be greatly appreciated!!  BTW sleeping in a mosquito net has quite a calming effect…

It is quite safe to venture around the city during the day… but I am told that the majority of my late evenings will be spent at home… which may be slightly difficult to get use to. A bunch of us from work are going out for dinner and dancing this Sat…should be good times!!! I ventured out (to the Canadian Embassy) with one of the staff this morning. Parts of the city reminded me of old Marrakech; however, the streets are far wider and less developed… there are a lot of people who line the streets…… Everyone is quite friendly and the kids are adorable!!!

Finally….work!  The people at work are very nice.

I am 4 hours ahead of Toronto time…


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